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The Return of Brooches: Why Vintage and Antique Brooches Are Back in Style

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Eric Naor

Guest
At Eric Originals & Antiques, we've spent over 40 years sourcing and studying antique and estate jewelry in NYC's Diamond District. I have been saying brooches are back for a few years now and have been seeing them more and more with each red carpet. Once I saw fast fashion brands selling jabot stick pins, I knew the vintage brooch trend was really here to stay. We're seeing brooches worn in traditional styles, as well as in some incredibly creative new ways that I've absolutely adored. Women have been wearing them on dresses and other clothing in the traditional sense, but they've also been experimenting with new, unexpected placements. Men, honestly, have been carrying the team when it comes to bringing brooches back. They are wearing them on lapels at every red carpet, on hats, and even as bow-shaped brooches styled as bowties.

Brooches for Men: Styling a Lapel Pin​


I have always loved a diamond brooch on a man's black lapel. Men have traditionally taken few opportunities to elevate their look with jewelry, but as we move into modern times, more and more men have embraced the brooch. A beautiful Art Deco platinum diamond brooch on a black suit pops against the lapel and elevates the look without overdoing it. During the latest Emmy Awards red carpet, practically every man, as well as several stylish women, was sporting a stunning brooch on their lapel. This Antique Art Deco 1920s 8.80 Carat Diamond Brooch is a perfect example: the geometric design and craftsmanship typical of the Deco era keep it distinctly masculine, and the high-quality white diamonds set in white metal make it truly noticeable.

Double Clip Brooches: The Original Versatile Brooch​


My favorite type of vintage brooch being worn by men right now is the double clip brooch, or dress clip. The first double clip brooch was designed by Louis Cartier in the 1920s and has stayed in style in various ways throughout the decades. These pieces were designed to be worn as a single brooch or separated into two clips worn independently. These double brooches were worn on either side of a lapel, on shirt cuffs, or even on shoes. Double clip brooches were especially popular during the Art Deco period, so many were made in platinum and diamond, though other metals and gemstones were used as well. Several major jewelry houses created their own versions, including Van Cleef & Arpels. This Antique Art Deco 1930s Van Cleef & Arpels 30.00 Carat Diamond Double Clip Brooch is one of the most exquisite double clip brooches I've ever seen.

Designer Brooches on the Red Carpet​


Designers have clearly benefited from this renewed love for brooches. The most notable example I've seen recently was Zendaya wearing a stunning David Webb/Chopard (??) spider brooch to a press tour for the Spider-Man movie. I loved how the brooch was positioned and used to hold up the wrap of the dress. Stunning! This innovative approach of wearing brooches on the body, and using them to pin clothing, has driven a huge surge in brooch popularity, from designer animal brooches to classic Deco pieces.



Courtesy of @davidwebbjewels on Instagram​

I still cannot believe the controversy over this brooch has not been resolved! Law Roach tagged Chopard in their original post and Chopard claimed the brooch is theirs. Since then, David Webb has claimed ownership and provided an alleged original sketch of the brooch from the 1990s on their instagram (also pictured above). In my opinion, the sketch provided doesn’t look like the brooch Zendaya is wearing and is more of David Webb’s typical animal brooch designs. The brooch does not necessarily read David Webb to me, but the true designer of the brooch remains a mystery.

A classic David Webb brooch to me is exemplified in this David Webb Frog Brooch. Their exceptional enamel work and use of cabochon colored stones is typical of David Webb. Webb has definitely cornered the market when it comes to animal brooches. Their frog brooches, bracelets and cufflinks are probably some of their most popular pieces, but they are known for all of their animal designs.

The Back Brooch Trend​


People have also been wearing animal brooches as back brooches, which has been one of my favorite new ways brooches are being styled lately. Some have been wearing a small animal peering over their shoulder, as well as other placements on the back to create unique looks. Michael B. Jordan has been a wonderful example of a man bringing brooches back, most notably the David Yurman brooch he wore at the center of his collar, on his back, at the Oscars.

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Courtesy of @davidwebbjewels on Instagram​

Back brooches are so chic, and the look works with so many different brooch styles when worn in the center of the collar. While I appreciate a classic, rounded silhouette for a back brooch, I've always loved when someone chooses a bolder, more elaborate statement piece. As I mentioned earlier, an intricate animal motif or a striking organic design filled with multi-shape diamonds can look absolutely breathtaking styled along the back. I've always thought our Vintage 1950s 15.00 Carat Diamond Brooch would look absolutely stunning styled this way, on the back of a man's collar.

Bowtie Brooches: A Modern Way to Wear a Vintage Brooch​


Earlier, I mentioned the idea of bowtie brooches. One of our best brooch clients, who was beautifully styling them long before they became a trend, wore one of our brooches on his bowtie, and I've been obsessed ever since. This is an incredibly unique way to wear a brooch and adds the perfect amount of pizzazz to an outfit. This client has an outstanding collection of brooches and has really set the standard for how brooches should be worn. Pictured below is Mr. Frank Santos and his partner, perfectly showcasing some stunning brooches (including his brooch on a bowtie) and stud sets. The epitome of bringing brooches back!

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I've always felt this Antique Art Deco 1920s 2.70 Carat Diamond Bow Brooch with Sapphires would work perfectly styled as a bowtie. The geometric designs of the Art Deco era read a bit more masculine, which is why I think Art Deco brooches are such a great option for men looking to elevate their look. The antique Asscher cut diamond in the center is also quite rare to find in such high quality. The accenting French cut sapphires are very typical of the time period and are the perfect color stone accent without taking over the piece.

Beyond Art Deco: Chunky Gold Brooches from the '60s, '70s, and '80s​


I've talked a lot about Art Deco platinum and diamond brooches, but brooches have been made in countless metals and gemstones over the decades. The 1960s, '70s, and '80s have been having a moment lately, too. These eras are known for chunky gold and diamond designs, and we've seen a real uptick in these larger, statement-making brooches being worn on dresses and lapels. They tend to lean feather- or floral-inspired, with white diamonds popping beautifully against the goldwork. Our Vintage 1970s 12.00 Carat Diamond Feathers Brooch captures all of these characteristics perfectly. It's reminiscent of a design Van Cleef & Arpels used to produce (without the VCA price tag) and offers a gorgeous vintage diamond brooch in yellow gold rather than platinum.

Conclusion​


Brooches have officially earned their place back in modern styling, not as an afterthought, but as a statement. Whether it's an Art Deco diamond brooch elevating a man's lapel, a chunky gold feather brooch commanding attention on a dress, or a beautifully unexpected placement like a bowtie or the back of a collar, brooches offer a kind of versatility that few other jewelry pieces can match. What I love most about this revival is that it isn't about chasing a trend — it's about rediscovering pieces with real history, craftsmanship, and rarity, and finding new ways to wear them today.
 
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